Bailèn 41's favorite snowbirds
Tracy and Len are wrapping up their three-month expedition to experience
everything Barcelona and environs have to offer. Tracy has kindly written this guest post on the bull rings of Barcelona, complete with her water color
of "La Monumental: The Bullfighter's Perspective." We love our guests!
Catalunya outlawed bull fighting several years ago, meaning there's no bull
to be found in Barcelona's two bull rings. This also means that you can enjoy
these architectural beauties without the gore or the guilt. Both arenas, of
course, are within easy striking distance of Bailèn 41.
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| watercolor courtesy of Tracy P. |
The closest arena is
La Plaza Monumental de
Barcelona, built in 1914 and with a capacity of almost 20,000 persons. La
Monumental, as it's generally called, now houses the Museo Taurino. For
a small fee, you can enter the gates, walk around the arcade, and imagine what
it would be like to see the stands filling with cheering patrons. On the winter
day that we visited we had the whole place to ourselves. We walked out into the
center of the ring, faced the red doors, and imagined the bull coming straight
for us. YIKES! Time to check out the horse
stables and the animal pens, which featured individual stalls for each of the
six bulls in a corrida.
The museum attached to the arena turns back the hands of time. Yellowed
newspaper articles, old posters, and matador costumes line the walls; the heads
of renowned bulls loom overhead, all with at least one ear missing and most lacking
both. Suggested reading before you go: the chapter on "The Bulls" in IBERIA, James Michener's marvelous book
on all things Spanish, available from your Bailèn 41 concierge.
Getting there from Bailèn
41: Exit the apartment, cross the street, turn right onto Grand Vía and
walk six blocks to Carrer Marina.
For a less gruesome experience, head to Plaça Espanya and Las Arenas, an old
ring from 1890 transformed into a modern shopping mall. The building retains
all of the original flair on the exterior but now boasts an interior that has
been wonderfully updated with upscale shops and modern conveniences. Take the
escalator to the top floor and walk the perimeter of the structure for a great 360-degree
view of the city. Also on this level are several fine dining options; on others
you'll find flamenco shows and movies.
Getting there from
Bailèn 41: Left from the apartment, cross Grand Vía, and hop on the H12 bus
to Plaça Espanya. For the return, catch the H12 on the other side of Gran
Vía. The Tetuan bus stop is right at the
corner of Bailen. So convenient.
If you must see a bullfight while you're in Spain, follow the directions in "Day
Trip to Madrid" and book your tickets.
Ole!
